Guide to Home Hair Colour and Choosing a Suitable Shade

Colouring hair at home is a practical option for covering grey or refreshing colour, but requires a suitable shade, careful reading of instructions and an allergy test every time.

How to Read Hair-Colour Shade Numbers

Most brands use a broadly similar numbering system. The first number indicates depth from 1 to 10: 1 is black, progressing towards brown, approximately 3 to 5, then dark blonde at 6 and 7, through to very light blonde at 9 and 10.

The number after the decimal point or slash in some brands, such as Wella, indicates the colour tone: zero means a natural shade without an obvious reflection, 1 is usually a cool ash tone that reduces yellow and warmth, 3 is warm gold and 4 copper. Repeated numbers, such as 8.11, indicate a deeper reflection of the same tone. Some numbers vary slightly between brands, so always check the colour chart on the pack.

How to Choose a Suitable Shade

  • Stay within two or three shades of your natural colour; darkening is easier and less stressful for hair than lightening.
  • For grey coverage, generally choose natural shades ending in zero or a shade matching your colour.
  • If your hair tends to turn yellow or orange after colouring, ash shades (.1) help cool the colour.
  • Remember that home hair colour does not lighten hair previously dyed dark.

An Allergy Test Before Every Application

The US Food and Drug Administration recommends a skin test every time, even if you previously used the same product without problems, because sensitisation may develop after repeated use. Apply a small amount of the mixture behind the ear or inside the elbow as the pack specifies, and wait the stated time, usually 48 hours. Do not use the colour if redness, itching, burning or swelling appears. Anyone previously allergic to paraphenylenediamine, PPD, or black henna tattoos should read ingredients carefully and consult a pharmacist or doctor before using any hair colour.

Steps for Safe Home Colouring

  • Wear the supplied gloves and protect the forehead and ear edges with a layer of rich cream.
  • Follow the stated timing and use a timer; leaving colour on longer does not mean a better result.
  • Rinse the scalp thoroughly until the water runs clear, then use the supplied conditioner.
  • Wait at least 14 days after chemical straightening, perming or bleaching before colouring.
  • Do not colour eyebrows or eyelashes with hair dye, as it may harm the eyes.

Selected Hair-Colour Products

Garnier Color Naturals: Natural, Ash and Golden Shades

L'Oreal Paris

Wella Koleston

Men's Beard Colour

Facial skin is more sensitive than the scalp, so choose a product intended for beards and moustaches. Perform an allergy test before every use, keep colour away from lips and eyes, and follow the short application time in the instructions. If unsure, start slightly lighter than your colour, as very dark colour looks less natural on a beard.

Common Mistakes

  • Skipping the allergy test because the product has been used before.
  • Choosing a shade from the cover photo alone without checking its number and colour chart.
  • Colouring damaged hair or a scalp with wounds or inflammation.

Many packs state that the product should not be used by people under 16. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, or if you have a skin condition, consult a pharmacist or doctor before colouring.

Browse other shades in the Hair Colour section, and for care after colouring, visit the Hair Care sections.