Guide to Hair Masks, Oils and How to Use Them

Masks, oils and serums are additional steps after shampoo and conditioner, especially useful for dry, coloured or heat-exposed hair. Each has a different role and method of use; incorrect use can make hair heavy or oily.

What Is the Difference Between These Products?

  • Hair Mask, or Hair Food: a cream richer than conditioner, applied after shampoo, left for a few minutes and rinsed; once or twice weekly is often enough.
  • Leave-In Cream: applied to damp hair after washing without rinsing, helping make combing easier.
  • Natural Oils and Oil Treatments: usually applied to the lengths before washing, left for a period, then washed out with shampoo.
  • Serum: a very small amount is spread onto the ends to reduce flyaways and add shine; it may contain silicones or lightweight oils.

Hair Food Masks

Apply the mask to lengths and ends after squeezing out excess water, avoiding the scalp if oily. Leave for the stated time and rinse thoroughly. Garnier describes Hair Food masks as having three uses: conditioner, mask or leave-in cream.

Leave-In Creams

Hair Serums

Start with one or two drops rubbed between the palms, then spread onto the ends, as too much makes hair oily. Some serums can be used on dry hair before bed, depending on pack instructions.

Natural Oils

Coconut oil is among the most studied oils. A 2003 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Science found that using it before washing reduced protein loss from hair compared with sunflower and mineral oils. Apply oil to lengths and ends, leave for half an hour to a few hours, then shampoo; a second wash may be needed to remove all oil.

Oil Treatment

An oil treatment is a creamy product combining oils in an easy-to-spread texture, usually used once weekly. Cover hair after application with a shower cap or warm towel, following the time stated on the pack.

Common Mistakes

  • Applying large amounts of oil or serum to an oily scalp.
  • Applying concentrated essential oils directly to the scalp without dilution.
  • Heating oil excessively before application, which may cause burns.
  • Relying on oils alone while continuing high-heat styling; reduce heat tools and use the lowest temperature.

Try any new oil on a small skin area first. If you have severe dandruff, inflammation or scalp spots, consult a pharmacist or doctor before applying oils.

Discover more in the Hair Care section, and for coloured hair, the Hair Colour sections.